On the ridge between sea and mountains

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A wonderful classic-style traverse of ridges, exactly between the majestic appearance of the northern slopes of the Gelas and Maledia and the Cote d’Azur sea. It is a really interesting route, especially if it is done at the beginning of the season, when there is still a lot of snow and the environment is very “Haute Montagne”. The difficulties are never high and the climb alternates snowy channels to aerial rocky ridges, to get finally to the Gelas’ summit, which has always been called the “Mont Blanc of the Maritime Alps”.


Day 1: Meeting with the guide at the Global Mountain Alpine Guides Office in Cuneo; after a brief check of the individual equipment, we will go by car to San Giacomo of Entraque, in the Gesso valley. From there we will ascend in about 4 hours to the Federici Marchesini at Pagarì hut (2.650 m). In the afternoon we will rest surrounded by many Alpine ibexes. Dinner and overnight stay.

Day 2: Breakfast at 5.30 am, departure at 6.30 am.

Once crossed the iced basin behind the hut, we will climb (with ice axes and crampons) the Canalino della Maledia to reach the Colletto del Muraion Soprano, behind which we will find the homonymous pond, that at 2.900 meters of altitude is the highest of the Maritime Alps. We will climb shortly to the summit of Maledia (3.061 m) and return to the pass. The traverse continues on the ridges that lead to the Borello summit, the Chafrion, the Balcone and finally to the Gelas, alternating rock and snow, and offering a fun climbing on difficulties that never exceed the 3rd grade. The descent along the Normal Route leads to the Soria hut and then to San Giacomo.

LEVEL Medium. The climb requires a good hiking training level.

PERIOD From June to September

What do I need?

Alpinism gear: Mountain boots, harness, helmet, crampons and ice axe according to the period. Mountain clothing: mountaineering pants, gore-tex jacket, gloves, cap, sunglasses, sunscreen.

What is included:

– Days with Global Mountain Alpine Guide.

– Any specific equipment missing for the activity (harness, helmet, crampons, ice-axe,…)

What in not included:

Transfer and overnight stay (the overnight stay of the guide is to be understood by the participants)


+39 335.6726008 –


Customized dates for individuals and pre-established groups

Maximum 2 people

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