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Monviso, the King of Stone
Gazing at Monviso rising on the horizon from the plains of Cuneo, you can feel a powerful call—the call of adventure. It appears like a sleeping giant, yet there is an irresistible attraction toward its summit. You prepare yourself with a mix of excitement and a touch of healthy apprehension for what, for many, will be their first true mountaineering experience.
You set off on the hike toward the Rifugio Quintino Sella al Monviso (2640 m), starting from Pian del Re (2020 m). The trail winds through a landscape that gradually transforms, leading into an increasingly alpine environment. The air becomes cooler, carrying the scent of the mountains, while the imposing mass of Monviso looms ever more majestically, almost as if observing the new arrivals. The estimated time to reach the refuge is about 2–3 hours, with an elevation gain of 620 meters.
At the refuge, an atmosphere filled with anticipation fills the air. Other hikers and climbers prepare for their ascents, sharing a silent excitement. They await the arrival of the mountain guide, an experienced and reassuring figure who will accompany the group to the summit. The guide provides final instructions and checks everyone’s equipment, ensuring everything is in order for the next day’s challenge. They settle in for the night, trying to rest despite the excitement lingering in the air.
The mountaineering day begins before dawn. We move in the hushed silence of the night, illuminated by headlamps that cut through the darkness. We follow the trail that climbs toward the Sagnette Pass (2,916 m), climbing approximately 350 meters over increasingly steep terrain. We encounter a long section equipped with chains that facilitate progression, but still require attention and caution. From the pass, the view opens up to an increasingly expansive panorama, anticipating the grandeur of the summit.
We then continue across moraine and scree terrain towards the Andreotti Bivouac (3,225 m), an isolated and basic base nestled at the foot of the imposing south face of Monviso. The hike from the Sella Refuge to the bivouac is estimated at about 1.5-2 hours, depending on your pace and conditions. At the bivouac, we take a short break to refuel and prepare for the most challenging part of the ascent.
From the Andreotti Bivouac, the mountain unfolds in all its stark beauty. We tackle a short section of the Sella Glacier (the size of which can vary significantly depending on the season), where crampons and an ice axe are sometimes necessary to ensure safe progression on the bare ice. We then tackle the south face of Monviso, following the Normal Route.
The route winds through grade II and III rock climbing sections, with some exposed sections requiring a strong nerve and good technique. The mountain guide always ensures progression, providing precise instructions on the placement of holds and climbing strategy. The route passes through characteristic sections, such as the “Cascatella,” a short, wet rock section; the “Diedro Camino,” a cracked dihedral requiring agility; and the spire of the “Duomo di Milano,” an isolated tower offering spectacular views. The crux of the climb is the “Camino dei Fornelli” (III+), a narrow, vertical chimney that tests climbing skills.
We then continue along exposed ledges and traverses until we reach the Canalone Grande di Viso, a wide scree-filled gully connecting the south and east faces. We ascend the gully carefully, paying attention to the stability of the rocks, until we reach the summit ridge. From here, via easier but still exposed rocks, we finally reach the summit of Monviso (3,841 m), topped by the distinctive metal cross. The total elevation gain from the Sella Refuge to the summit is approximately 1,200 meters, with an estimated climbing time of between 5 and 7 hours, depending on mountain conditions and the pace of the climbing team.
From the summit, the view is breathtaking. The 360-degree view spans the surrounding valleys, the other peaks of the Western Alps, and, on clear days, all the way to the plains. You’ll feel a sense of achievement and a profound connection with the mountain. After a brief stop to admire the landscape and refresh yourself, you’ll begin the descent along the same route, paying even greater attention to the climbing sections and exposed sections.
The return to the Quintino Sella Refuge requires about 4-5 hours of descent, during which you must remain highly concentrated. Once you reach the refuge, you can enjoy a well-deserved rest before embarking on the final leg of the hike to Pian del Re, estimated to take another 2-3 hours. You return to the valley with the indelible memory of an intense and rewarding experience, the first true mountaineering achievement that leaves a lasting impression, and the knowledge of having faced and surpassed your limits. For those who want to experience this exciting adventure safely and with the guidance of expert professionals, Globalmountain organizes summer climbs to Monviso every summer.