A splendid ridge traverse with a classic feel, literally straddling the severe environment of the northern slopes of Gelas and Maledia and the sea of the French Riviera. It is a particularly interesting itinerary, especially at the start of the season when snow is still abundant, as the environment feels very “Haute Montagne.” The difficulties are never high, and the climb alternates between snow couloirs and airy rocky ridges, culminating at the summit of Mount Gelas, long nicknamed the “Mont Blanc of the Maritime Alps.”

Program

1st day

Meet your guide in Cuneo at the Global Mountain Alpine Guides Office; after a quick check of your individual gear, we'll drive to San Giacomo di Entracque in Val Gesso. From here, it's about a 4h hike up to the Federici Marchesini al Pagarì refuge (2650 m). Enjoy a restful afternoon in the company of numerous ibex, followed by dinner and an overnight stay.

2nd day

Breakfast at 5:30 AM, departure at 6:30 AM. After crossing the glacial basin behind the refuge, we'll climb the Canalino della Maledia (using ice axe and crampons) to reach the Colletto del Muraion Soprano. If there's no snow, we can take a rock-only variant on the ridge leading to Caire del Muraion; behind it lies the lake of the same name, which at over 2900 meters is the highest in the Maritime Alps. The traverse continues along the ridges leading to Cima Borello, Chafrion, Balcone, and finally Gelas, alternating long rock sections that offer fun climbing with difficulties never exceeding grade III. The descent along the long Normal Route leads to the Soria Refuge and then back to San Giacomo di Entracque. (Tot. 6-8h)

Necessary materials

Mountaineering equipment

• mountain boots
• harness
• helmet
• crampons and ice axe depending on the period

Harness, helmet, crampons and ice axe can be rented.

Mountain clothing

• mountaineering trousers
• Gore-Tex jacket or similar
• fleece or technical sweatshirt
• gloves, hat
• sunglasses
• sunscreen
• personal care products for the night at the refuge

Rates per person for private/pre-formed groups

Tariffe a persona per gruppi privati/precostituiti:

• 600€ - 1 persona
• 350€ - 2 persone