Monte Rosa Capanna Margherita

The highest mountain hut in Europe

Plan your trip
Monte Rosa Capanna Margherita

Informations

Guide-to-client ratio

1/5

Period

From June to September based on the opening dates of the mountain huts

Difficulty

Easy Mountaineering. The climb requires good walking fitness (1.5h on the first day, 4-5h on the second day)

Level

Area

Aosta Valley, Monte Rosa Massif

Certainly one of the great classics of the Alps: a panoramic climb that takes place in a high mountain environment starting from Rifugio Gnifetti or Rifugio Mantova. After leaving the hut, the climb takes place entirely on a glacier, sometimes crevassed, but which does not present significant technical difficulties except for the fatigue due to the altitude.

The Regina Margherita hut is located on the summit of Punta Gnifetti, the highest peak in Valsesia; built in 1893 and renovated in 1980, it is an important physical-meteorological observatory for the Piedmont Region and the highest mountain hut in Europe (4,554 m). The peculiarity of this climb is that reaching the summit (Punta Gnifetti) coincides with arriving at the hut (Capanna Margherita) where you can eat, drink and rest in view of the descent.

Preparing yourself with awareness is the key to making the most of this incredible experience. Learn more here

Program

Day 1 The meeting for the departure towards Gressoney is scheduled in Cuneo at the Global Mountain headquarters, or in Ivrea (highway toll booth), or directly at the start of the Gressoney Stafal ski lifts. From there, using the lifts, you will reach Punta Indren. You then climb towards the Mantova hut and then reach Capanna Gnifetti (about 2 hours of ascent with a short section of equipped trail). The afternoon is dedicated to resting in view of the next day's climb, dinner and overnight stay in the hut.

Day 2 Early morning departure: you climb the glacier crossing the snow bridges that allow you to overcome the large crevasses; you reach the Lyskamm pass, continue past the Grenz glacier and then reach the final ramp that takes us to the summit. 950m of elevation gain to the summit, about 4 hours from the hut. Descent along the same route. Return in the evening.

Necessary materials

Mountaineering equipment

  • mountain boots, preferably with crampons or semi-crampons
  • telescopic trekking poles
  • harness
  • helmet
  • crampons
  • ice axe

Harness, helmet, crampons and ice axe can be rented.

High mountain clothing

  • thermal first layer
  • technical sweatshirt or fleece
  • down jacket or padded jacket
  • Goretex jacket or similar windproof jacket
  • mountaineering trousers
  • warm gloves
  • spare gloves
  • cap or buff

Essential accessories

  • sleeping bag sheet (mandatory in all high mountain refuges)
  • category 3 or 4 sunglasses
  • thermos or thermal flask
  • sunscreen
  • headlamp
  • energy bars and basic medicines

Rates per person for private/pre-formed groups

Le seguenti tariffe si applicano esclusivamente a gruppi privati e precostituiti:

  • 650€ - 1 persona
  • 350€ - 2 persone
  • 280€ - 3 persone
  • 250€ - 4 persone
  • 200€ - 5 persone

 

 

Group ascents

GLOBALMOUNTAIN is organizing group climbs for summer 2026.

COLLECTIVE CLIMB RATE: €240

THE CLIMB IS CONFIRMED WITH A MINIMUM OF 4 PARTICIPANTS - MAX 5 PARTICIPANTS

ALL TIMES AND MEETING POINTS WILL BE ESTABLISHED BY THE GUIDE 2/3 DAYS BEFORE BASED ON THE WEATHER AND COMMUNICATED VIA WHATSAPP GROUP.

FOR INFORMATION ON CANCELLATIONS AND REFUNDS, PLEASE CONSULT THE Terms and Conditions PAGE.

The price includes

  • Accompaniment by a Global Mountain UIAGM/IFMGA Mountain Guide
  • Shared safety equipment for the guide's use

The price excludes

  • Transfers
  • Ski lifts (€45 R/T Punta Indren) and overnight stay at Rifugio Gnifetti (€105 half board). The Guide's hut and ski pass costs are to be covered by the participants
  • Any specific equipment missing for the activity (harness, helmet, crampons and ice axe can be rented)

For any information, contact us at +393356726008

Or via email at promotion@globalmountain.it

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    Guides

    Paolo Collo

    Paolo Collo

    Alpine Guide

    Always in search of new experiences, he loves nature in all its forms. He practices various disciplines to be “ready” to face any kind of terrain, recognizing the mountain as an excellent school of life. He lives in Villar San Costanzo and is an instructor in rope access training, where he also brings over ten years of hands-on experience as a craftsman. He works as a helicopter rescue technician for the emergency medical service 118.

    +39 3281327953

    paolo@globalmountain.it

    Enrico Turnaturi

    Enrico Turnaturi

    Alpine Guide, Ski Instructor

    Born in Turin in 1989, he lives in Caraglio. In winter he works as a Mountain Guide, focusing on ski mountaineering and ice climbing, of which he is a great enthusiast. He is a ski instructor and ski racing coach. A great lover of trad climbing, in summer he alternates classic mountaineering with technical rock climbs. A photography and travel enthusiast, he has already climbed in various parts of the world, including Nepal, Patagonia, and Morocco. He divides his year between searching for powder snow and climbing, traveling across Europe. He is a National Instructor in the training courses for Mountain Guides.

    +39 3386391333

    enrico@globalmountain.it

    Simone Greci

    Simone Greci

    Alpine Guide

    Originally from Alba but based in Borgo San Dalmazzo, in his previous professional life he worked in IT for several well-known multinational companies. He is now a full-time Mountain Guide and nurtures a strong passion for climbing in all its forms.

    +393426027539

    simone@globalmountain.it

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