Mont Blanc Normal Route

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Mont Blanc Normal Route

Informations

Guide-to-client ratio

1/2

Period

From June to September depending on mountain conditions and refuge opening

Difficulty

Medium/Difficult mountaineering depending on the chosen route. The ascent requires excellent walking fitness

Level

Area

Aosta Valley, Mont Blanc Massif

Mont Blanc is a long and demanding ascent, but highly rewarding as it is the most prestigious peak of the massif bearing its name. There are two “Normal” Routes on the French side and one on the Italian side: the easiest is the one from Chamonix ascending to the recently rebuilt Gouter Refuge, then following the Bosses Ridge; the second, slightly more difficult, from Cosmiques Refuge ascends through the 3 mountains, namely Mont Blanc du Tacul, Mont Maudit and finally Mont Blanc. Linking the two normal routes creates a splendid “Loop” tour discovering the upper parts of the massif. The Italian “Normal” route ascends from the Miage Glacier to Gonella Refuge and is called the Pope’s Route. These are 3 beautiful routes in a high mountain environment, both magnificent and severe; despite reduced technical difficulties, decent crampon technique and good physical preparation are required.

Program

THE 3 "NORMAL" ROUTES

Normal Route from Gouter Refuge

Day 1 Early morning departure from Cuneo at Global Mountain headquarters (or meeting in Ivrea – highway) heading to Chamonix/Les Houches; from here, take the cable car and rack railway to Nid d'Aigle. A 5-6 hour walk with easy climbing/via ferrata leads to Gouter Refuge at 3,814 m. Afternoon dedicated to rest in preparation for the next day's ascent, dinner and overnight at the refuge.

Day 2 Wake up at 1:00 AM, departure around 1:30 – 2:00 AM for the ascent to Mont Blanc at 4,810 m along the Bosses Ridge. Descent along the same route, via the 3 mountains or to Gonella Refuge depending on the program agreed with the Mountain Guide. Total walking time 12 – 13 hours.

Normal Route from Cosmiques Refuge

Day 1 Morning departure from Cuneo at Global Mountain headquarters (or meeting in Ivrea – highway) heading to Chamonix; from here, take the cable car to the summit of Aiguille du Midi. Upon exiting the structure, you immediately find yourself on an exposed ridge section and in 1 hour reach the Cosmiques Refuge. Afternoon dedicated to rest in preparation for the next day's ascent, dinner and overnight at the refuge.

Day 2 Wake up at 12:30 AM, departure around 1:00 AM for the ascent to Mont Blanc at 4,810 m along the 3 mountains route. Descent along the same route, to Gouter Refuge or Gonella Refuge depending on the program agreed with the Mountain Guide.

Normal Route from Gonella Refuge

Day 1 Early morning departure from Cuneo at Global Mountain headquarters (or meeting in Ivrea – highway) heading to Courmayeur where, still by car, you drive up Val Veny. Ascent on foot of the Miage Glacier and arrival at Gonella Refuge at 3,071 m in the afternoon. Dinner and overnight at the refuge.

Day 2 Wake up at midnight, departure around 1:00 AM for the ascent to Mont Blanc at 4,810 m along the route passing through Piton des Italiens, Dome du Gouter and the Bosses Ridge. Descent along the same route, to Gouter Refuge or Cosmiques Refuge depending on the program agreed with the Mountain Guide.

Necessary materials

Mountaineering equipment: crampon-compatible or semi-crampon-compatible mountain boots, harness, helmet, crampons and ice axe, mountain clothing: mountaineering pants, gore-tex jacket, gloves, hat, sunglasses, sunscreen, headlamp.

Rates per person for private/pre-formed groups

The price includes

  • Ascent with a UIAGM/IFMGA Global Mountain Guide.
  • Any missing specific equipment for the activity (harness, helmet, crampons, ice axe)

The price excludes

  • Transfers (unless otherwise agreed, the Guide's transfer is at the participants' expense)
  • Ski passes and cable cars (the Guide's ski pass is at the participants' expense)
  • Accommodation and meals (half board and all the Guide's meals are at the participants' expense)

For any information, contact us at +393356726008

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    Guides

    Silvio Bassignano

    Silvio Bassignano

    Alpine Guide

    A great mountain enthusiast, he spent many years managing the Bozano Refuge at the base of Corno Stella, a mountain on which he is also co-author of a monographic guidebook. He trained in the Maritime Alps and around Monviso, and collaborates with ski resorts and A.I.NE.VA. as safety director for avalanche risk prevention.

    +39 3487148590

    silvio@globalmountain.it

    Andrea Garelli

    Andrea Garelli

    Alpine Guide

    He lives in his native Maira Valley and engages in all aspects of mountain activities, but prefers remote and wild routes. A travel enthusiast, he has lived in both Barcelona and Sheffield, in the heart of the Peak District. He combines his passion with his work as an engineer.

    +39 3933875714

    andrea@globalmountain.it

    Enrico Turnaturi

    Enrico Turnaturi

    Alpine Guide, Ski Instructor

    Born in Turin in 1989, he lives in Caraglio. In winter he works as a Mountain Guide, focusing on ski mountaineering and ice climbing, of which he is a great enthusiast. He is a ski instructor and ski racing coach. A great lover of trad climbing, in summer he alternates classic mountaineering with technical rock climbs. A photography and travel enthusiast, he has already climbed in various parts of the world, including Nepal, Patagonia, and Morocco. He divides his year between searching for powder snow and climbing, traveling across Europe. He is a National Instructor in the training courses for Mountain Guides.

    +39 3386391333

    enrico@globalmountain.it

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